Intake Manifold Design | Horsepower Calculators .net
Damn Good Article
Monday, December 27, 2010
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Exhaust Gas Analysis
CO2 - Carbon dioxide: This is the relative efficiency of the burn from complete combustion of the fuel. At all engine speeds, the best power will generally be found within less than a 0.3% change.
O2 - Oxygen: If the percentage is high, it indicates that more ignition advance can likely be used, or that the different cylinder offsets/staggers need correction due to a lean condition in one cylinder.
CO - Carbon monoxide: Mixture strength from partially burned fuel. If a given throttle position makes best power at a given percentage. All other throttle positions will be very close to this reading at best power.
HC - Total hydrocarbons in parts per million: Unburned fuel - Shows general state of engine health with lower readings for good large bore engines, and higher readings for good small bore engines.
NOx - Nitrogen Oxides in parts per million: High readings indicate high combustion temperatures and can be a precursor to detonation. Among many things, this hydrocarbon count indicates compression and squish/quench conditions, as well as spark strength and combustion dynamics
O2 - Oxygen: If the percentage is high, it indicates that more ignition advance can likely be used, or that the different cylinder offsets/staggers need correction due to a lean condition in one cylinder.
CO - Carbon monoxide: Mixture strength from partially burned fuel. If a given throttle position makes best power at a given percentage. All other throttle positions will be very close to this reading at best power.
HC - Total hydrocarbons in parts per million: Unburned fuel - Shows general state of engine health with lower readings for good large bore engines, and higher readings for good small bore engines.
NOx - Nitrogen Oxides in parts per million: High readings indicate high combustion temperatures and can be a precursor to detonation. Among many things, this hydrocarbon count indicates compression and squish/quench conditions, as well as spark strength and combustion dynamics
Exhaust Gas Analysis - Ignition Timing
I see this more often than I want. Mosty when a customer comes in with the latest and greates cams that are poorly matched to their engine combination. More is not better. More cam duration requires more static compression, or dynamic compression drops. A less efficient and lazy engine is the result. Even if peak power increases, the engine takes longer to rev to the same engine speed, resulting in a slower combination.
Choose to keep the cam(s) and increase compression, or change cam(s). Higher octane fuel doesn't help. You might try running a fuel with faster burn characteristics and working with cam timing as a band-aid fix to poor cam selection. But it is not the best answer.
O2 and CO2 levels will tell you a good bit about ignition advance - especially when more is needed or the fuel is way off. No specific numbers, as each engine combination and mapping alter combustion efficiency. But the ratio of both gases can indicate a lot until you get a good grasp on a particular engine combination.
THC goes up with poor combustion, as does carbon particulates (soot).
Fuels with too slow burn rate for needs, as well as poor vaporization, atomization and homoginization, will all require richer fuel mixtures - increasing CO% required for best output. But you can go too far with all of these as well. Great BSFC and response, but limited output due to fuel vapor displacing air.
NOx will provide a lot of info on ignition advance limitations and knock limits prior to the onset of detonation in knock-limited combinations.
I have putting together more information on gas analysis over the past few months, but it will take a few months to get back to it. We are in the middle of moving into a new facility. I will post up when it is complete.
_________________
"To achieve anything in this game you must be prepared to dabble in the boundary of disaster." -Sterling Moss
Choose to keep the cam(s) and increase compression, or change cam(s). Higher octane fuel doesn't help. You might try running a fuel with faster burn characteristics and working with cam timing as a band-aid fix to poor cam selection. But it is not the best answer.
O2 and CO2 levels will tell you a good bit about ignition advance - especially when more is needed or the fuel is way off. No specific numbers, as each engine combination and mapping alter combustion efficiency. But the ratio of both gases can indicate a lot until you get a good grasp on a particular engine combination.
THC goes up with poor combustion, as does carbon particulates (soot).
Fuels with too slow burn rate for needs, as well as poor vaporization, atomization and homoginization, will all require richer fuel mixtures - increasing CO% required for best output. But you can go too far with all of these as well. Great BSFC and response, but limited output due to fuel vapor displacing air.
NOx will provide a lot of info on ignition advance limitations and knock limits prior to the onset of detonation in knock-limited combinations.
I have putting together more information on gas analysis over the past few months, but it will take a few months to get back to it. We are in the middle of moving into a new facility. I will post up when it is complete.
_________________
"To achieve anything in this game you must be prepared to dabble in the boundary of disaster." -Sterling Moss
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Friday, December 17, 2010
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Heatd O2 4 wire
Wires on 4 wire O2:
WHITE: Signal Wire
GREEN: Signal Ground
2 BLACK: Both black wires are the heater circuit wires.
Using a P28 ECU (and should work for most obd1 ecu's with 4-wire controls)
Run O2 Sensor signal (white) To D14
Run O2 Sensor signal Ground (green) to D22 (or any good Ground)
Run O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Control (black) to A6
Run the other black heater circuit power wire to (A25) or any good switched +12VDC source.
WHITE: Signal Wire
GREEN: Signal Ground
2 BLACK: Both black wires are the heater circuit wires.
Using a P28 ECU (and should work for most obd1 ecu's with 4-wire controls)
Run O2 Sensor signal (white) To D14
Run O2 Sensor signal Ground (green) to D22 (or any good Ground)
Run O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Control (black) to A6
Run the other black heater circuit power wire to (A25) or any good switched +12VDC source.
Thursday, December 9, 2010
Hondata - Return to Idle (9th December 2010)
Problem is really solved now. Here what I did
Not as easy as "no name" after market ECU, but learned alot!
My return to idle on throttle lift off at 4,000 rpm, clutch in is now ALWAYS a glide path back to target idle - 1,300 rpm
- Tune the idle air-con on and air-con off to the same afr using O2 (sensor overlay worked best) . Used a richer mixture (race cams, exhaust reversion) - O2 swing/STRIM didn't look so good at richer mixtures, but engine likes it. This made a big difference
- Checked the ECU was bumping up INJ and IGN, the instant ACSW=0
- Fined Tuned the IGN in the idle air-con off and idle air-con, and the trace area between to the two areas, such that the IGN always goes up (e.g. from 30 deg air-con off to 33 degrees air-con. This made a big difference
- Dumped fuel in 12kPa load area 1800 rpm to 3,000 rpm
- Set over-run TPS (MAP) to 8KpA 500rpm to 4000rpm - i.e minimum setting as possible
- Quicken STRIM rate of change
Not as easy as "no name" after market ECU, but learned alot!
My return to idle on throttle lift off at 4,000 rpm, clutch in is now ALWAYS a glide path back to target idle - 1,300 rpm
Monday, December 6, 2010
IACV Unplugged = Closed (Set Base Idle)
If you want to test the IAC valve to make sure it will fully close down, you can temporarily unplug it. When you unplug the IAC valve the idle should drop to the base idle. When the car is fully warmed up, and is on base idle, all the air is being controlled on the idle bypass screw. If the idle air bypass screw does not seem to have total control over the idle, the IAC valve may not be shutting down completely, or there is another source of unmetered air.
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Friday, December 3, 2010
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Saturday, November 27, 2010
O2 Feedback Box - Power FC
The setting here relates to the INJ map. Any cell with an INJ value below the setting value will be subject to O2 feedback/correction provided the function is turned on.
Before I showed how most people use the INJ map, for fuel adjustments, and then ReCelc Base and set all the values back to 1.000. As you can see, this will make every cell in the map subject of O2 Feedback Control if the function is on and the default setting value is used.
You need to pick the setting value so that you are only applying O2 feedback correction to cells very near stoichiometric. I use a value of 1.035, which corresponds to a commanded AFR of 14.2:1 (assuming 14.7:1 as base AFR value).
This would work well when using the INJ map as a target AFR table.
However, in practice this function works extremely poorly. It is very slow to respond and wildly overshoots stoichiometric.
I find that at idle, the car will fluctuate between 12.5 and 16.5 AFR with this setting turned on. Unfortunately, the settings that control the response of this function are protected and hidden on the Power FC.
On more advanced ECU's such as the AEM EMS, these functions are tunable.
Since the function essentially doesn't work, I just leave it off permanently. With the function off, you no longer have a real consideration with how you use your INJ map.
Before I showed how most people use the INJ map, for fuel adjustments, and then ReCelc Base and set all the values back to 1.000. As you can see, this will make every cell in the map subject of O2 Feedback Control if the function is on and the default setting value is used.
You need to pick the setting value so that you are only applying O2 feedback correction to cells very near stoichiometric. I use a value of 1.035, which corresponds to a commanded AFR of 14.2:1 (assuming 14.7:1 as base AFR value).
This would work well when using the INJ map as a target AFR table.
However, in practice this function works extremely poorly. It is very slow to respond and wildly overshoots stoichiometric.
I find that at idle, the car will fluctuate between 12.5 and 16.5 AFR with this setting turned on. Unfortunately, the settings that control the response of this function are protected and hidden on the Power FC.
On more advanced ECU's such as the AEM EMS, these functions are tunable.
Since the function essentially doesn't work, I just leave it off permanently. With the function off, you no longer have a real consideration with how you use your INJ map.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
IACV - Decel (like hitting the brakes)
The IAC also has a lot of control over how the car decelerates. If you disconnect the IAC, the engine braking is much more. You let off the throttle, and it is like you hit the brakes. This is because the IAC is not allowing any air at all into the engine and it would prefer to stop.
ELD - Idle Up 100 rpm
On the USDM GS-R, the ELD only kicks the idle up by 100 RPM (750 to 850). So does the power steering switch and the A/C compressor
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Pomen
Bro/Sifu,
My Kancil got this problem just after doing the top overhaul of my Engine. Went into the same pomen/mechanic and he said something about oil seal leak etc. after all that he had done, its still leaking. my last drive just 2300km and the indicator warning already on. need second opinion from other sifu out there.
TQ for your reply
My Kancil got this problem just after doing the top overhaul of my Engine. Went into the same pomen/mechanic and he said something about oil seal leak etc. after all that he had done, its still leaking. my last drive just 2300km and the indicator warning already on. need second opinion from other sifu out there.
TQ for your reply
Saturday, November 20, 2010
ELD & ALTC
ELD, ALTC, and U
by mattminerDOTcom » Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:56 pm
So, Ive been looking into the differenced between USDM and JDM ecus and one of the major ones is the lack of ELD and ALT on the JDM ecus.
So i started looking into what these actually are. Ill start with a summary of what each does.
ELD: this is an amneter in your fusebox. it tells the ecu what sort of load is on your electrical system. It meters any current draw through the fusebox. (so, if you have ABS, amplifiers, etc etc this is NOT metered)
ALTC: this is an output on the ecu that tells the alternator to relax, like at idle. for some reason though, if you apply a large load this output is triggered for about half a second, like for example, when you flash your high beams.
now, if the ELD sees alto of load, its supposed to keep ALTC from kikcing on. BUT if you circumvent the fusebox in any way, the ELD doesnt see that loud. hence the problems with dimming lights with bumping systems, etc etc.
My simple fix was to cut the ALTC wire on my ecu (pin A16 obd1, B5 obd0). Now my alternator works like normal (governed by its internal voltage regulator) and my voltage is much more stable. its very obvious with my larger fuel injectors when there is a voltage fluctuation, as my AFRs change, as well as my voltage gauge, causing a funky idle.
Also, one more point, to those of you looking into upgrading your alternator to a high output unit, make sure you ask to see a graph of output vs RPM. youll be surprised to see that most of the high output alternators actually have less current capabaility at low rpm then a stock one! they need to be revved up to acheive their full capcabilities.
anyway, hope this was informative, just wanted to put it out there.
-M@
by mattminerDOTcom » Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:56 pm
So, Ive been looking into the differenced between USDM and JDM ecus and one of the major ones is the lack of ELD and ALT on the JDM ecus.
So i started looking into what these actually are. Ill start with a summary of what each does.
ELD: this is an amneter in your fusebox. it tells the ecu what sort of load is on your electrical system. It meters any current draw through the fusebox. (so, if you have ABS, amplifiers, etc etc this is NOT metered)
ALTC: this is an output on the ecu that tells the alternator to relax, like at idle. for some reason though, if you apply a large load this output is triggered for about half a second, like for example, when you flash your high beams.
now, if the ELD sees alto of load, its supposed to keep ALTC from kikcing on. BUT if you circumvent the fusebox in any way, the ELD doesnt see that loud. hence the problems with dimming lights with bumping systems, etc etc.
My simple fix was to cut the ALTC wire on my ecu (pin A16 obd1, B5 obd0). Now my alternator works like normal (governed by its internal voltage regulator) and my voltage is much more stable. its very obvious with my larger fuel injectors when there is a voltage fluctuation, as my AFRs change, as well as my voltage gauge, causing a funky idle.
Also, one more point, to those of you looking into upgrading your alternator to a high output unit, make sure you ask to see a graph of output vs RPM. youll be surprised to see that most of the high output alternators actually have less current capabaility at low rpm then a stock one! they need to be revved up to acheive their full capcabilities.
anyway, hope this was informative, just wanted to put it out there.
-M@
Friday, November 19, 2010
Monday, November 15, 2010
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
OS Giken
On the OS you have to take the small ring gear off of the old diff housing and transfer it over to the OS. If you don't the speedo will not work. The gear isn't terribly hard to get off, just tap around the edges of it gently with a punch and hammer. Go from side to side to make sure it's coming off of the diff evenly. Then place it in an oven and heat it up a bit to expand it and drop it on the housing of the OS. You may have to tap it a bit but it will go on no prob
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1086459
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1086459
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Overflow Tanks Needs to be Air Tight
To get coolant back into the radiator from the overflow tank, the rubber line from the top of the radiator to the overflow has to be air tight. No cracks, etc. If it is not airtight, air is pulled back into the radiator, not coolant from the tank. Also, the radiator cap has to be working correctly. It basically has a two-way valve in the top of it. If the radiator overheats, the pressure goes up and at a certain pressure the valve opens and coolant flow thru the rad cap, thru the rubber tube, into the overflow. When the rad cools down, the creates a partial vacumn in the rad which opens the valve in the cap in the opposite direction, allowing coolant to be 'sucked' back into the radiator from the overflow tank.
So, you can see that the radiator cap, it's valve, must be working correctly and there can be no air leaks in the rad cap seal to the radiator and in the rubber hose to the overflow tank. And, in the overflow tank, there is a tube that goes almost to the bottom of the tank. It must be in place, and the hose connection to the top of this tube must not leak, so the coolant will be pulled back into the radiator.
Oh, and all the other rubber lines in the cooling system must be air tight. If you have a small leak in any of them, rad hoses, heater hoses, etc, then when a motor cools down, air will be pulled into the system at the leak, and it will not form the vacumn to pull coolant back from the overflow tank.
So, you can see that the radiator cap, it's valve, must be working correctly and there can be no air leaks in the rad cap seal to the radiator and in the rubber hose to the overflow tank. And, in the overflow tank, there is a tube that goes almost to the bottom of the tank. It must be in place, and the hose connection to the top of this tube must not leak, so the coolant will be pulled back into the radiator.
Oh, and all the other rubber lines in the cooling system must be air tight. If you have a small leak in any of them, rad hoses, heater hoses, etc, then when a motor cools down, air will be pulled into the system at the leak, and it will not form the vacumn to pull coolant back from the overflow tank.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
B-series - Oil Galleries and Coolant Passages
We still apply a very thin coating of Hondabond to the areas of the gasket where oil flows to prevent the possibility any leaks.Both the deck surfaces (block and head) were cleaned thoroughly with acetone before assembly
Monday, October 4, 2010
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Be Mindful is a campaign, by the Mental Health Foundation, raising awareness about the benefits of mindfulness
Be Mindful is a campaign, by the Mental Health Foundation, raising awareness about the benefits of mindfulness
Is stress damaging your health? Tired, Irritable & Emotional?
Is stress damaging your health? Tired, Irritable & Emotional?
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Advancing ignition timing by 10° will cause the spark plug tip temperature to increase by approximately 70° to 100°C
NGK Spark Plugs USA
Advancing ignition timing by 10° will cause the spark plug tip temperature to increase by approximately 70° to 100°C
Advancing ignition timing by 10° will cause the spark plug tip temperature to increase by approximately 70° to 100°C
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Axles / Driveshaft 32mm
All USDM Integra axles are 32mm including the Type R.
JDM ITR which are 36mm.
JDM ITR which are 36mm.
Friday, September 10, 2010
TODA Pistons (B18C) Weight
81.25mm - 286.0g
Piston Rings 19.7g (in wrapper)
Piston Pins 100.7g (in wrapper)
Clip 1.2g
Piston Rings 19.7g (in wrapper)
Piston Pins 100.7g (in wrapper)
Clip 1.2g
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Friday, August 27, 2010
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
FANC (A27) OBDa (96-98 Civic)
Best damn explanation.
On USDM G2s there is a "Radiator Fan Control Module" (RFCM = Radiator Fan Control, FANC A20 OBD2a pin-out) it turns on the radiator fan when A/C is on and/or if engine oil temp is too high, the "Engine Oil Temperature Switch" can turn the radiator fan on, [through the RFCM] even when ignition is off.
With that said, the "Engine Coolant Temperature Switch" (ECTS) will trigger the "Radiator Fan Relay" (RFR) any time the coolant overheats, [about 194 degrees F].
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2757123
If radiator fan is not turning on...
Test for power at the fan, [white to blue/black on fan] fuse 12 - 15A, [hot at all times].
Test for power at Radiator Fan Relay. [yellow/black to black/yellow at relay] fuse 21 - 15A, [hot in run].
Test for ground at relay, [black].
Use a jumper to supply a ground to the blue lead at Relay, [ground for fan] does fan turn on?
Use the jumper to supply a ground to the yellow/green lead at relay, [from ECTS] does fan turn on?
The 94-98 Integra’s do not have the RFCM (=Radiator Fan Control, FANC A20 OBD2a pin-out) and the ground is constant at the radiator fan, the 12V is switched by the RFR and radiator fan operation is controlled by the ECU/ECM when A/C is on, but again it is controlled directly by the ECTS, [through RFR] when engine coolant temperature reaches 196-203 degrees F.
The tests are about the same...
Check for a constant ground at the rad fan, [black].
Test for 12V at the relay 94-97 is fuse 33 - 20A, [hot at all times] sorry color is not available and the black/yellow lead at relay fuse 13 - 7.5A, [hot in run].
Use a jumper to supply 12V to the fan lead, [black/red] at the relay, does fan turn on?
Use a jumper to supply a ground, [ign. must be on] to the ECTS lead at the relay, [green], does fan turn on?
A 98 is a little harder as relay is in engine bay fuse box, but test for ground at the rad fan, [black].
Test for power at the relay, [pull relay] there should be two 12V terminals, one of the bigger ones fuse 57 - 20A, [hot at all times] a smaller terminal will also be 12V, fuse 17 - 7.5A, [hot in run].
Use a jumper to connect the two bigger terminals in the relay socket, does fan turn on?. 94
On USDM G2s there is a "Radiator Fan Control Module" (RFCM = Radiator Fan Control, FANC A20 OBD2a pin-out) it turns on the radiator fan when A/C is on and/or if engine oil temp is too high, the "Engine Oil Temperature Switch" can turn the radiator fan on, [through the RFCM] even when ignition is off.
With that said, the "Engine Coolant Temperature Switch" (ECTS) will trigger the "Radiator Fan Relay" (RFR) any time the coolant overheats, [about 194 degrees F].
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2757123
If radiator fan is not turning on...
Test for power at the fan, [white to blue/black on fan] fuse 12 - 15A, [hot at all times].
Test for power at Radiator Fan Relay. [yellow/black to black/yellow at relay] fuse 21 - 15A, [hot in run].
Test for ground at relay, [black].
Use a jumper to supply a ground to the blue lead at Relay, [ground for fan] does fan turn on?
Use the jumper to supply a ground to the yellow/green lead at relay, [from ECTS] does fan turn on?
The 94-98 Integra’s do not have the RFCM (=Radiator Fan Control, FANC A20 OBD2a pin-out) and the ground is constant at the radiator fan, the 12V is switched by the RFR and radiator fan operation is controlled by the ECU/ECM when A/C is on, but again it is controlled directly by the ECTS, [through RFR] when engine coolant temperature reaches 196-203 degrees F.
The tests are about the same...
Check for a constant ground at the rad fan, [black].
Test for 12V at the relay 94-97 is fuse 33 - 20A, [hot at all times] sorry color is not available and the black/yellow lead at relay fuse 13 - 7.5A, [hot in run].
Use a jumper to supply 12V to the fan lead, [black/red] at the relay, does fan turn on?
Use a jumper to supply a ground, [ign. must be on] to the ECTS lead at the relay, [green], does fan turn on?
A 98 is a little harder as relay is in engine bay fuse box, but test for ground at the rad fan, [black].
Test for power at the relay, [pull relay] there should be two 12V terminals, one of the bigger ones fuse 57 - 20A, [hot at all times] a smaller terminal will also be 12V, fuse 17 - 7.5A, [hot in run].
Use a jumper to connect the two bigger terminals in the relay socket, does fan turn on?. 94
Monday, August 23, 2010
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
.bmp)
Monday, August 16, 2010
45mm 48mm 55mm 81mm (Clearance 40 thousandth mm)
45mm Crank Rod Journal Diameter
48mm Rods Big End Diameter
55mm Crank Main Journal Diameter
81mm Bore
Clearance (Thousands mm)
24-42 Main 1,2,4 & 5
30-48 Main 3
32-50 Rods
10-40 Pistons
48mm Rods Big End Diameter
55mm Crank Main Journal Diameter
81mm Bore
Clearance (Thousands mm)
24-42 Main 1,2,4 & 5
30-48 Main 3
32-50 Rods
10-40 Pistons
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Junk2 TB 70mm
The clearance between the pulley and shaft is poor (a a screw a hole that is too big - the metal also is soft), causing rocking - net result is that butter wont close, even through the TPS shows 0%. 2 Weeks hassle.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Idle - Hondata
Setting the Idle Speed
Top Previous Next
To adjust the idle speed:
1. Warm up the engine.
2. Set the idle speed to 850 rpm and move the duty cycle adjustment to the middle.
3. Unplug the idle valve.
4. Adjust the bypass screw until the engine runs at 450 rpm. If you can not reduce the idle to 450 rpm, then you have an air leak. Fix this before proceeding. If the engine will not run with the idle valve disconnected then your bypass port is clogged. Fix this before proceeding.
5. Plug the idle valve back in.
6. Clear the idle valve error. You should now get a smooth idle at 850 rpm.
7. Increase the engine speed to 2500 - 3000 rpm and abruptly let off the throttle.
If the engine speed dips below 850 rpm, move the duty cycle slider to the right.
If the engine speed hangs above 850rpm for some time, move the duty cycle slider to left.
Some engines prefer 900 or 950 rpm idle speed.
Top Previous Next
To adjust the idle speed:
1. Warm up the engine.
2. Set the idle speed to 850 rpm and move the duty cycle adjustment to the middle.
3. Unplug the idle valve.
4. Adjust the bypass screw until the engine runs at 450 rpm. If you can not reduce the idle to 450 rpm, then you have an air leak. Fix this before proceeding. If the engine will not run with the idle valve disconnected then your bypass port is clogged. Fix this before proceeding.
5. Plug the idle valve back in.
6. Clear the idle valve error. You should now get a smooth idle at 850 rpm.
7. Increase the engine speed to 2500 - 3000 rpm and abruptly let off the throttle.
If the engine speed dips below 850 rpm, move the duty cycle slider to the right.
If the engine speed hangs above 850rpm for some time, move the duty cycle slider to left.
Some engines prefer 900 or 950 rpm idle speed.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Enriching AFR increase idle speed
Normally at idle the ECU will run in closed loop, so the mixture will vary around 14.7:1 Running in open loop and enriching the mixture to about 14:1 increases the idle speed.
The stock setting is slightly retarded at idle. Adding 3-4 degrees ignition advance to something like 20 degrees in the idle portion of the ignition tables increases the idle speed
The stock setting is slightly retarded at idle. Adding 3-4 degrees ignition advance to something like 20 degrees in the idle portion of the ignition tables increases the idle speed
Hondata - Ignition Compensation
The base ignition retard is determined by engine speed. This number is degrees of retard.
fuel tables are arbitrary linear fuel values
What are the fuel units in ROM Editor not milliseconds?
Injector duration varies with a number of different conditions (water temperature, air temperature etc) and is not linear. E.g. an injector duration of 4ms will not deliver twice the fuel of an injector duration of 2ms (it will be almost three times the fuel). The numbers in the fuel tables are arbitrary linear fuel values. A fuel value of 500 will deliver twice the fuel of a value of 250. You can see the approximate injector duration on the 2d and 3d graph views by selecting Show Injector Duration.
Injector duration varies with a number of different conditions (water temperature, air temperature etc) and is not linear. E.g. an injector duration of 4ms will not deliver twice the fuel of an injector duration of 2ms (it will be almost three times the fuel). The numbers in the fuel tables are arbitrary linear fuel values. A fuel value of 500 will deliver twice the fuel of a value of 250. You can see the approximate injector duration on the 2d and 3d graph views by selecting Show Injector Duration.
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Monday, June 28, 2010
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Sprung and Unsprung Clutch Disc
T: What's the difference between a sprung and unsprung center hub?
S: For a traditional flywheel design (not dual mass), springs are placed in the center of a clutch disc to reduce transmission noises caused by the torsional vibrations (rotational pulses) of the engine.
A spring center disc will operate quieter and reduce wear on the center splines of the disc.
A rigid center disc, being lighter, will shift faster, engage smoother with high-friction materials, and avoid spring failures.
They're race parts and aren't intended for high-mileage applications, since the splines tend to wear out prematurely from the vibration.
Torsional vibration will increase with fewer cylinders, higher compression, hotter cams, higher boost, timing, lighter flywheel, or many aftermarket harmonic balancers
S: For a traditional flywheel design (not dual mass), springs are placed in the center of a clutch disc to reduce transmission noises caused by the torsional vibrations (rotational pulses) of the engine.
A spring center disc will operate quieter and reduce wear on the center splines of the disc.
A rigid center disc, being lighter, will shift faster, engage smoother with high-friction materials, and avoid spring failures.
They're race parts and aren't intended for high-mileage applications, since the splines tend to wear out prematurely from the vibration.
Torsional vibration will increase with fewer cylinders, higher compression, hotter cams, higher boost, timing, lighter flywheel, or many aftermarket harmonic balancers
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Friday, June 11, 2010
Thursday, June 10, 2010
ORC Carbon Pro
Inertia moment is extremely small due to the lightweight carbon disc. Almost half the weight of convential single disks.
The effectiveness of the synchros increases and allows for a more more precise, quick and racing car feel when shifting.
The effectiveness of the synchros increases and allows for a more more precise, quick and racing car feel when shifting.
Dog Box
Methods of Changing Gear. By William Hewland. July 2000
The following is some info regarding shifting gear and face dog wear. I am in the fortunate position where I have a good amount of knowledge on the subject, as I understand the mechanical side and the user (driver) side equally well. For succesful gear shifting, remember that it is critical to ensure that all mechanical elements between the drivers hand and the dog faces are in good order and properly set. This includes the gear linkage in the chassis!
Successful up-shifting, (defined as fast and non dog-damaging) will be achieved by fully moving the dog ring as rapidly as possible from one gear to the next, preferably with the engine's driving load removed until the shift is completed. (The opposite is true of a synchromesh gearbox as used in passenger cars, where slow movement helps). It should be remembered that it is not possible to damage the dogs when fully engaged (in gear). The damage can only take place when initiating contact during a shift, (the `danger zone`) therefore this element must be made as short as possible. If a driver moves the gear lever slowly, or if the linkage is not rigid and effective, dog wear will occur.
We always recommend lightweight yet solid rod linkage, not cables ideally.I list below the different methods of up-shifting that are used in racing most commonly. The best at the top, the worst at the bottom:
Automated (semi automated). The movement of the dog ring is powered and the engine is cut / re-instated in a co-ordinated manner. Gear-shifts take milliseconds. This system produces zero dog wear when set up well. It is not applicable to most cars, but it illustrates that speed of shift is a good thing.
Manual with engine cut. This system is almost as good as an automated one as long as the driver pulls the lever very quickly. Again it is not applicable to many cars, but it illustrates that speed of shift is a good thing. A `cheat` version of this is to shift on the engine rev limiter, which can work well. With this system it is especially important to move the lever ultra fast, otherwise the engine will be reinstated during partial dog engagement, causing damage. The damage can usually be felt by the driver.
Manual.Best method: With no assistance from the engine management, the driver must lift off the throttle sufficiently to allow the dog ring to be pulled out of engagement. He should then stay off the throttle long enough to allow the dog ring to engage with the next gear. In practice, the driver can move the gear lever faster than he can move his foot off and back on to the throttle. Therefore the effective method is to apply load to the gear lever with your hand and then lift the throttle foot off and back on to the pedal as fast as physically possible. In lifting your foot, the loaded gear lever will almost involuntarily flick to the next gear before the foot is re-applied to the throttle.
Down ShiftingSuccessful down-shifting, has similar rules applied regarding speed of shift. Unloading the dogs is done in the opposite manner obviously. Whilst braking, the dogs must be unloaded by either touching the throttle pedal or- my preferred method- by dipping the clutch. However, one sharp dab of clutch or throttle is appropriate per shift. Continued pressure on either will cause dog damage for different reasons. `Blipping the throttle` just before engagement is advisable if the rev drops between gears are over 1300 rpm, as this will aid engagement and stabilise the car. TOP TIP for ease of downshifting: Make the downshifts as late as possible in your braking zone (i.e. at lower road speed), because the rev drops between each gear are then lower. So many drivers make the mistake of downshifting as soon as they begin braking, causing gearbox wear, engine damage and `disruption` to the driving wheels. This is a subject which can be much expanded on, but I feel that these are the basics, which I hope are of use
The following is some info regarding shifting gear and face dog wear. I am in the fortunate position where I have a good amount of knowledge on the subject, as I understand the mechanical side and the user (driver) side equally well. For succesful gear shifting, remember that it is critical to ensure that all mechanical elements between the drivers hand and the dog faces are in good order and properly set. This includes the gear linkage in the chassis!
Successful up-shifting, (defined as fast and non dog-damaging) will be achieved by fully moving the dog ring as rapidly as possible from one gear to the next, preferably with the engine's driving load removed until the shift is completed. (The opposite is true of a synchromesh gearbox as used in passenger cars, where slow movement helps). It should be remembered that it is not possible to damage the dogs when fully engaged (in gear). The damage can only take place when initiating contact during a shift, (the `danger zone`) therefore this element must be made as short as possible. If a driver moves the gear lever slowly, or if the linkage is not rigid and effective, dog wear will occur.
We always recommend lightweight yet solid rod linkage, not cables ideally.I list below the different methods of up-shifting that are used in racing most commonly. The best at the top, the worst at the bottom:
Automated (semi automated). The movement of the dog ring is powered and the engine is cut / re-instated in a co-ordinated manner. Gear-shifts take milliseconds. This system produces zero dog wear when set up well. It is not applicable to most cars, but it illustrates that speed of shift is a good thing.
Manual with engine cut. This system is almost as good as an automated one as long as the driver pulls the lever very quickly. Again it is not applicable to many cars, but it illustrates that speed of shift is a good thing. A `cheat` version of this is to shift on the engine rev limiter, which can work well. With this system it is especially important to move the lever ultra fast, otherwise the engine will be reinstated during partial dog engagement, causing damage. The damage can usually be felt by the driver.
Manual.Best method: With no assistance from the engine management, the driver must lift off the throttle sufficiently to allow the dog ring to be pulled out of engagement. He should then stay off the throttle long enough to allow the dog ring to engage with the next gear. In practice, the driver can move the gear lever faster than he can move his foot off and back on to the throttle. Therefore the effective method is to apply load to the gear lever with your hand and then lift the throttle foot off and back on to the pedal as fast as physically possible. In lifting your foot, the loaded gear lever will almost involuntarily flick to the next gear before the foot is re-applied to the throttle.
Down ShiftingSuccessful down-shifting, has similar rules applied regarding speed of shift. Unloading the dogs is done in the opposite manner obviously. Whilst braking, the dogs must be unloaded by either touching the throttle pedal or- my preferred method- by dipping the clutch. However, one sharp dab of clutch or throttle is appropriate per shift. Continued pressure on either will cause dog damage for different reasons. `Blipping the throttle` just before engagement is advisable if the rev drops between gears are over 1300 rpm, as this will aid engagement and stabilise the car. TOP TIP for ease of downshifting: Make the downshifts as late as possible in your braking zone (i.e. at lower road speed), because the rev drops between each gear are then lower. So many drivers make the mistake of downshifting as soon as they begin braking, causing gearbox wear, engine damage and `disruption` to the driving wheels. This is a subject which can be much expanded on, but I feel that these are the basics, which I hope are of use
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Friday, May 28, 2010
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Clutch Pilot Bearing : RepairPal
Clutch Pilot Bearing : RepairPal
The clutch pilot bearing provides a rotating link between the engine crankshaft and the transmission input shaft.
When the clutch is not fully applied, the engine crankshaft speed and the transmission input shaft speed are different.
The clutch pilot bearing allows the transmission input shaft—which extends into the engine crankshaft—to rotate independently at these times.
When the clutch is fully applied, the engine crankshaft and transmission input shaft rotate as one and the clutch pilot bearing is not needed.
The clutch pilot bearing provides a rotating link between the engine crankshaft and the transmission input shaft.
When the clutch is not fully applied, the engine crankshaft speed and the transmission input shaft speed are different.
The clutch pilot bearing allows the transmission input shaft—which extends into the engine crankshaft—to rotate independently at these times.
When the clutch is fully applied, the engine crankshaft and transmission input shaft rotate as one and the clutch pilot bearing is not needed.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Torco RTF
Racing Transmission Fluid
Torco RTF is specifically engineered to reduce fluid drag for increased power efficiency without compromising component durability.
It is made from a combination of specially selected 100% synthetic Group IV/V base oils proving superior shear resistance and extreme temperature stability.
Torco RTF is specially formulated to exceed the load-carrying and extreme pressure wear protection properties of higher viscosity GL-5 or GL-6 gear oils and provides anti-score protection for high speed, high load and high torque shock-loading conditions, while allowing smooth operation of synchronizers.
Highly recommended for achieving maximum power efficiency.
Group IV/V 100% Synthetic Formula
Minimizes Parasitic Drivetrain Losses
Decreases Transmission Temperatures
Superior level of shock load, extreme pressure and wear protection
Used in Road Racing,Sports Compact street applications
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Honda transmission was designed to use engine oil
One of the most commonly brought up questions from our customers is what gear oil to use in their freshly built Honda Transmission. Our reply to this question has always been: DON'T!
"He must be crazy", you are probably thinking, but there is a simple explanation for this answer:
After a comprehensive analysis, we can conclude that a large number of drivers out there use the completely wrong fluid. The lubrication system in the Honda transmission was designed to use engine oil, and this has not been changed for any of their transmissions. What this means is that, in order for the gears, shafts, bearings, hubs/sliders to be lubricated as intended, a low viscosity transmission fluid must be used, regardless of whether it is synchronous engagement or dog engagement.
Basically, you MUST use the correct transmission fluid in a Honda Transmission and should not use a performance gear oil as it is too thick and does more damage than good. Performance Gear Oils also lack the additives necessary for the smooth running of the synchronous engagement system, as well as a lot of them containining chemicals which disintegrate the brass synchro rings. This is not common knowledge because customers are led to believe marketing and/or technical advice related to your typically large hypoid transmissions, NOT your specialist Honda Transmission.
For most cases where the vehicle is an unmodified Street Car, the OEM Honda MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid) is more than adequate. The problem arises when you start putting either higher power or higher rpm shifting through the transmission. Not only must you still keep within the tolerances of the oem lubrication system, you must also protect the transmission from shock loads. Using Performance Gear Oil is the Number 2 Reason (after incorrect installation) that is directly responsible for most transmission failures (i.e the Cause), subsequently leading to a part failure (i.e the Symptom).
Unfortunately, most consumers tend to follow the advice of your so-called "Performance Specialist" who are only concerned about the symptoms, rather than the cause, and usually end up recommending big-brand (and often expensive) performance gear oils. This is a 100% NO GO on a Honda Transmission. Although GL4 & GL5 Rated Gear Oils contain shock protection additives, they are also too thick for the oem Honda lubrication system. The engagement system (synchronous vs dog) is irrelevant in this case. Lubrication is the key word here.
A basic analogy would be: Oil is your transmissions blood supply and needs to flow smoothly. Clog it up with cholesterol (i.e thick gear oil), and it will have a heart attack. Not enough Iron (i.e shock additives), and it will get anaemic/weak.
"He must be crazy", you are probably thinking, but there is a simple explanation for this answer:
After a comprehensive analysis, we can conclude that a large number of drivers out there use the completely wrong fluid. The lubrication system in the Honda transmission was designed to use engine oil, and this has not been changed for any of their transmissions. What this means is that, in order for the gears, shafts, bearings, hubs/sliders to be lubricated as intended, a low viscosity transmission fluid must be used, regardless of whether it is synchronous engagement or dog engagement.
Basically, you MUST use the correct transmission fluid in a Honda Transmission and should not use a performance gear oil as it is too thick and does more damage than good. Performance Gear Oils also lack the additives necessary for the smooth running of the synchronous engagement system, as well as a lot of them containining chemicals which disintegrate the brass synchro rings. This is not common knowledge because customers are led to believe marketing and/or technical advice related to your typically large hypoid transmissions, NOT your specialist Honda Transmission.
For most cases where the vehicle is an unmodified Street Car, the OEM Honda MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid) is more than adequate. The problem arises when you start putting either higher power or higher rpm shifting through the transmission. Not only must you still keep within the tolerances of the oem lubrication system, you must also protect the transmission from shock loads. Using Performance Gear Oil is the Number 2 Reason (after incorrect installation) that is directly responsible for most transmission failures (i.e the Cause), subsequently leading to a part failure (i.e the Symptom).
Unfortunately, most consumers tend to follow the advice of your so-called "Performance Specialist" who are only concerned about the symptoms, rather than the cause, and usually end up recommending big-brand (and often expensive) performance gear oils. This is a 100% NO GO on a Honda Transmission. Although GL4 & GL5 Rated Gear Oils contain shock protection additives, they are also too thick for the oem Honda lubrication system. The engagement system (synchronous vs dog) is irrelevant in this case. Lubrication is the key word here.
A basic analogy would be: Oil is your transmissions blood supply and needs to flow smoothly. Clog it up with cholesterol (i.e thick gear oil), and it will have a heart attack. Not enough Iron (i.e shock additives), and it will get anaemic/weak.
Friday, May 14, 2010
Monday, May 10, 2010
ATS USA, Inc. - ATS Final Gear
ATS USA, Inc. - ATS Final Gear
The following Honda parts are necessary to install ATS 4.928 final drive to US transmission UNLESS your transmission is JDM Integra Type R 98 after with 4.78 final drive.
1st gear 23421-P80-E30
Distance Collar 23914-P80-E30
Needle Bearing 91107-P80-E31
The following Honda parts are necessary to install ATS 4.928 final drive to US transmission UNLESS your transmission is JDM Integra Type R 98 after with 4.78 final drive.
1st gear 23421-P80-E30
Distance Collar 23914-P80-E30
Needle Bearing 91107-P80-E31
Friday, May 7, 2010
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Inline 4 - Crankshaft Counterweight
When it comes to lightening factory counterweights, stress on the crank probably won't beas big of an issue as bearing loads will be.
As a general rule, in 5 main bearing 4 cylinders, you can reduce counterweight mass if it the same as opposing journal mass but at the cost of your pin and main bearings
As a general rule, in 5 main bearing 4 cylinders, you can reduce counterweight mass if it the same as opposing journal mass but at the cost of your pin and main bearings
ATI Balancer
We run a ATI balancer for 3 years, Had it rebuilt each season just for PM.
We have never broke a STOCK OIL PUMP so that says something about their balancer.
OH yeah, and because we have the WORLDS FASTEST FWD HONDA in dragracing history. Yep in a HOTROD car.
But seriously they are awesome balancers! I need one for my 1g DSM if someone want to give me a good price!
__________________
Stephanie Eggum Racing Hot Rod 2000 Civic SI
FIRST AND ONLY FWD HONDA IN THE 7's.
7.87 @184mph QUICKEST and FASTEST FWD DRAG HONDA IN THE WORLD!
We have never broke a STOCK OIL PUMP so that says something about their balancer.
OH yeah, and because we have the WORLDS FASTEST FWD HONDA in dragracing history. Yep in a HOTROD car.
But seriously they are awesome balancers! I need one for my 1g DSM if someone want to give me a good price!
__________________
Stephanie Eggum Racing Hot Rod 2000 Civic SI
FIRST AND ONLY FWD HONDA IN THE 7's.
7.87 @184mph QUICKEST and FASTEST FWD DRAG HONDA IN THE WORLD!
Monday, May 3, 2010
Friday, April 30, 2010
In-line 4 - Secondary Balance
The 2nd order harmonic vibration of the flat plane V-8 and 4 cylinder engines.
At any given instant, the velocities of the pistons traveling upward does not equal the velocities of the pistons traveling downward.
The net velocity of all eight cylinders is therefore not equal to zero, which causes vibrations, felt as buzziness to the occupants of the vehicle.
Contributing factors that make up this 2nd order harmonic are
1) Stroke,
2) Reciprocating mass, and
3) Rod to Stroke ratio
Shorter strokes, less reciprocating mass and longer rod to stroke ratios all help to reduce that 2nd order harmonic
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Piston Skirt - Cam (Oval) & Barrel - Wiseco
Pistons are tapered somewhat because high temperatures cause the top of the piston to expand more than the skirt area. For this reason pistons are measured in the skirt area rather than across the crown. Also, pistons are cam ground; that is, they are oval-shaped because they expand more in the direction of the pins.
Wiseco’s detailed skirt shapes and profiles are very specific to each application. Variable cam programming software developed in house allows Wiseco to produce high-performance shapes unique to only Wiseco.
The skirt shape (barrel/cam) is one of the most functional areas on the piston, and provides stability and smooth operation in the cylinder bore. Stability is important for proper ring seal, reduced friction, and quiet operation.
Each skirt shape is designed for a specific running clearance, based on coefficient of thermal expansion of the piston alloy. Some forging alloys expand more than casting alloys, but each Wiseco piston is designed with the proper installed clearance to produce the most power, least wear, and best seal at running temperature, for each application.
Comparing installed clearances on cast vs forged parts is not indicative of the running clearance at temperature. Wiseco engineers have a strong background in all forms of racing applications, and produce the best shapes and designs in the industry.
Wiseco’s detailed skirt shapes and profiles are very specific to each application. Variable cam programming software developed in house allows Wiseco to produce high-performance shapes unique to only Wiseco.
The skirt shape (barrel/cam) is one of the most functional areas on the piston, and provides stability and smooth operation in the cylinder bore. Stability is important for proper ring seal, reduced friction, and quiet operation.
Each skirt shape is designed for a specific running clearance, based on coefficient of thermal expansion of the piston alloy. Some forging alloys expand more than casting alloys, but each Wiseco piston is designed with the proper installed clearance to produce the most power, least wear, and best seal at running temperature, for each application.
Comparing installed clearances on cast vs forged parts is not indicative of the running clearance at temperature. Wiseco engineers have a strong background in all forms of racing applications, and produce the best shapes and designs in the industry.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Friday, April 23, 2010
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Break-in
certainly disagree with installing the pistons and dry. Engine breakin, after 35 years of engine building experience, is simple and short, but it is also a continuous process for the life of the car. I have posted what I do several times and it makes for a tight engine that burns no oil.
1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Drive the car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the engine bring the revs back down by coasting in gear.
4. Repeat several times in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RPM's for several more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.
Your engine is now fully broken in correctly and can be driven hard from here on.
Periodically, hard engine braking is necessary to get the cylinders as hot as possible and forcing the rings against the walls for maintaining proper wall smothness.
Every builder has their own specific method of breakin, and you can go back and forth forever in this debate, but it is not a complicated topic. Porsche suggests that the engines need to make about 6 million revolutions before it is broken in, and I maintain that after only a hundred thousand or less revolutions, what is going to break or break in, has already done so.
1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Drive the car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the engine bring the revs back down by coasting in gear.
4. Repeat several times in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RPM's for several more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.
Your engine is now fully broken in correctly and can be driven hard from here on.
Periodically, hard engine braking is necessary to get the cylinders as hot as possible and forcing the rings against the walls for maintaining proper wall smothness.
Every builder has their own specific method of breakin, and you can go back and forth forever in this debate, but it is not a complicated topic. Porsche suggests that the engines need to make about 6 million revolutions before it is broken in, and I maintain that after only a hundred thousand or less revolutions, what is going to break or break in, has already done so.
Engine Balance - Static & Secondary
Now when the Piston/rods have been balanced and assembled to the crank, then that whole assembly need to be balanced both statically and dynamically. And again when the engine is built and attached to a prop. The rotating mass is the total weight of the rods, pistons, rings, and complete flywheel/prop/hub assembly. A rotating assembly that is in perfect balance rotates concentrically around the center line of the axis of rotation.
A rotating assembly that is not in perfect balance tends to rotate in an elliptical (egg shaped) manner, around the center line of the axis axis rotation, with the elongated portion of the ellipse at the point of unbalance.The more unbalanced, the more exaggerated the ellipse.
Of course, the elliptical movement caused by the unbalance is restrained by the bearings. It follows that the greater the elliptical motion of the flywheels, the greater the wear on the bearings.
For example, as the speed of the engine doubles, the amount of force, per revolution, created by unbalance tends to increase by an approximate factor of four. Unbalance is typically expressed in ounce inches (oz. in.). This means 1 ounce (28.35 grams) of unbalance at 1-inch radius.
Example:
One ounce inch of unbalance at 2,000 rpm creates approximately 7 pounds of force per rpm.
One ounce inch of unbalance at 4,000 rpm creates approximately 23 pounds of force per rpm.
One ounce inch of unbalance at 8,000 rpm creates approximately 120 pounds of force per rpm.
A rotating assembly that is not in perfect balance tends to rotate in an elliptical (egg shaped) manner, around the center line of the axis axis rotation, with the elongated portion of the ellipse at the point of unbalance.The more unbalanced, the more exaggerated the ellipse.
Of course, the elliptical movement caused by the unbalance is restrained by the bearings. It follows that the greater the elliptical motion of the flywheels, the greater the wear on the bearings.
For example, as the speed of the engine doubles, the amount of force, per revolution, created by unbalance tends to increase by an approximate factor of four. Unbalance is typically expressed in ounce inches (oz. in.). This means 1 ounce (28.35 grams) of unbalance at 1-inch radius.
Example:
One ounce inch of unbalance at 2,000 rpm creates approximately 7 pounds of force per rpm.
One ounce inch of unbalance at 4,000 rpm creates approximately 23 pounds of force per rpm.
One ounce inch of unbalance at 8,000 rpm creates approximately 120 pounds of force per rpm.
Stroker
A major source of engine wear is the sideways force exerted on the piston through the con rod by the crankshaft, which typically wears the cylinder into an oval cross-section rather than circular, making it impossible for piston rings to correctly seal against the cylinder walls.
Geometrically, it can be seen that longer con rods will reduce the amount of this sideways force, and therefore lead to longer engine life. However, for a given engine block, the sum of the length of the con rod plus the piston stroke is a fixed number, determined by the fixed distance between the crankshaft axis and the top of the cylinder block where the cylinder head fastens; thus,
for a given cylinder block longer stroke, giving greater engine displacement and power, requires a shorter connecting rod (or a piston with smaller compression height), resulting in accelerated cylinder wear.
Geometrically, it can be seen that longer con rods will reduce the amount of this sideways force, and therefore lead to longer engine life. However, for a given engine block, the sum of the length of the con rod plus the piston stroke is a fixed number, determined by the fixed distance between the crankshaft axis and the top of the cylinder block where the cylinder head fastens; thus,
for a given cylinder block longer stroke, giving greater engine displacement and power, requires a shorter connecting rod (or a piston with smaller compression height), resulting in accelerated cylinder wear.
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Monday, April 12, 2010
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Caldina
caldina has a very very bad headroom height.. and rear seat only can maximised for 2 person.. or 3 chicks at the back seat but still.. pass by the road humps sure kena scratched below .. and.. for the drivers who damn gungho for performance and sporty look car.. ah bear suggest you guys to get Evo8 or mazda RX8.. caldina is still a stationwagon mpv leh..
Friday, April 9, 2010
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Block Blue Printing-CNC Block Prep-Rottler F68A
Block Blue Printing-CNC Block Prep-Rottler F68A: "Block blue printing is an exact science starting with the crankshaft and camshaft centerline.The block decks and cylinder bores are corrected to the crankshaft and camshaft centerline. The cylinder bores are then bored on center distances to blueprint specs. This process is achieved through the use of a datum fixture that references the crankshaft and camshaft centerline at a true 45 degrees. The block is probed from the centerline then indicated from the dowel location. This enables the bore spacing to be corrected and blue printing the deck surfaces square to the camshaft and crankshaft centerline at a true 45 degree angle is achieved..The dimensions are imputed to the CNC control holding tolerances to 0001. This accuracy is achievable with CNC machinery and specialized precision locators, and tooling"
Honda Inline - No Bob Weights Required - HInes
Reciprocating Mass Percentages
All figures are based on manufacturer ’s specifications for passenger car use. Racing
applications may require different percentages. Contact the competition department of the engine manufacturer for more information. Balance percentages for racing applications may differ from passenger car specifications. Motorcycle engine bobweighting (designated by the “M” next to the manufacturer name) has not been proven by Hines Industries.
IMPORTANT: Normally, unless an engine is listed below, using 50% reciprocating and 100% rotating will suffice.
All figures are based on manufacturer ’s specifications for passenger car use. Racing
applications may require different percentages. Contact the competition department of the engine manufacturer for more information. Balance percentages for racing applications may differ from passenger car specifications. Motorcycle engine bobweighting (designated by the “M” next to the manufacturer name) has not been proven by Hines Industries.
IMPORTANT: Normally, unless an engine is listed below, using 50% reciprocating and 100% rotating will suffice.
Crankshaft Balancing:Theory 101 Henson Racing Engines Oklahoma
Crankshaft Balancing:Theory 101 Henson Racing Engines Oklahoma
With inline four and six cylinder engines, and flat horizontally opposed fours and sixes (like Porsche and Subaru), all pistons move back and forth in the same plane and are typically phased 180°apart so crankshaft counterweights are not needed to balance the reciprocating components.
Balance can be achieved by carefully weighing all the pistons, rods, wrist pins, rings and bearings, then equalizing them to the lightest weight
With inline four and six cylinder engines, and flat horizontally opposed fours and sixes (like Porsche and Subaru), all pistons move back and forth in the same plane and are typically phased 180°apart so crankshaft counterweights are not needed to balance the reciprocating components.
Balance can be achieved by carefully weighing all the pistons, rods, wrist pins, rings and bearings, then equalizing them to the lightest weight
Monday, April 5, 2010
Saturday, April 3, 2010
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Monday, March 29, 2010
ENDYN I use 4032 alloy on our normally aspirated pistons, unless the customer tells me ....
Hi there, Brian from Wiseco here. Sorry to hear your having issues with your Endyn pistons. Very commendable work doing research on the alloys though. Your descriptions of the alloys was first rate. You're smarter than most of our competition is I have some more info that I hope helps. Wiseco builds almost every sport compact piston w/ 2618 (unless specially requested by customer). All Endyn's are 2618. The reason for this is: to make big power w/ a small engine you either a: run a turbo, b: run nitrous, c: spin the be-jesus out of it. So we try to cover all the bases and go straight to 2618. 2618 does expand more than 4032 due to less porosity. We actually build the same clearance into the bottom of the skirt though as it only see's about 250 degre's of oil temperature.
We build the skirt taper of the pistons differently depending on the alloy and forging design. We do build two different primary styles of forgings. Strutted (like our IRL, CUP, Trans Am, etc.) -extremely light strong, but also so ridged that shape becomes very important; and slipper or full round (very similar except the band that goes out to the cylinder below the pin and heavier). These are more forgiving, but not as strong (this style is what the other piston companies sell as well). If you can furnish the part number from your box, I can tell you which forging was used. We offset almost all of our pins as well like the O.E's to quiet the pistons down. This is an expense that most of the other companies don't want to mess with, but for you guys running on the street, we've found it to be very helpful. I personally run the new 11.7:1 K566 series strutted piston in my own test engine and found them to be ABSOLUTELY silent on start up. I do not yet have 500 miles on it yet, which is the real test!, but I would expect them to develop a small amount of clatter on startup for about a minute, but certainly not to the extent you are experiencing. If you are running a slipper skirt or "full round", I would expect even less noise as we design those w/ less taper. I found the numbers for our pin bore clearance and Endyn's "usual" piston to wall clearance to be correct. Perhaps even a little to perfect which brings me to my next point. If the engine is taken apart yet, I'd HEAVILY suggest you have it taken to another shop and have piston to wall clearance checked again. Have them check taper in the cylinder bore as well. Measuring point is 1.300" below the oil ring groove on all our pistons. We've got a near constant problem of shops used to building chevy's putting in an extra "thou" of clearance knowing that it's better to rattle than seize. Honda's are a different animal though. If you go to another shop, they will likely give you the straight answer. Now, if you do find that they honed the engine too large, your only economical choice is to have the pistons coated to try and take up extra clearance. I'd recommend Polymer Dynamics in Texas at 713 694 3296 as they do many of the coatings for our Pro customers. Please give me a call at 800-321-1364 ext. 3177 if I can be of further assistance. Thanks, Brian Nutter-Wiseco Piston Co.
We build the skirt taper of the pistons differently depending on the alloy and forging design. We do build two different primary styles of forgings. Strutted (like our IRL, CUP, Trans Am, etc.) -extremely light strong, but also so ridged that shape becomes very important; and slipper or full round (very similar except the band that goes out to the cylinder below the pin and heavier). These are more forgiving, but not as strong (this style is what the other piston companies sell as well). If you can furnish the part number from your box, I can tell you which forging was used. We offset almost all of our pins as well like the O.E's to quiet the pistons down. This is an expense that most of the other companies don't want to mess with, but for you guys running on the street, we've found it to be very helpful. I personally run the new 11.7:1 K566 series strutted piston in my own test engine and found them to be ABSOLUTELY silent on start up. I do not yet have 500 miles on it yet, which is the real test!, but I would expect them to develop a small amount of clatter on startup for about a minute, but certainly not to the extent you are experiencing. If you are running a slipper skirt or "full round", I would expect even less noise as we design those w/ less taper. I found the numbers for our pin bore clearance and Endyn's "usual" piston to wall clearance to be correct. Perhaps even a little to perfect which brings me to my next point. If the engine is taken apart yet, I'd HEAVILY suggest you have it taken to another shop and have piston to wall clearance checked again. Have them check taper in the cylinder bore as well. Measuring point is 1.300" below the oil ring groove on all our pistons. We've got a near constant problem of shops used to building chevy's putting in an extra "thou" of clearance knowing that it's better to rattle than seize. Honda's are a different animal though. If you go to another shop, they will likely give you the straight answer. Now, if you do find that they honed the engine too large, your only economical choice is to have the pistons coated to try and take up extra clearance. I'd recommend Polymer Dynamics in Texas at 713 694 3296 as they do many of the coatings for our Pro customers. Please give me a call at 800-321-1364 ext. 3177 if I can be of further assistance. Thanks, Brian Nutter-Wiseco Piston Co.
Let me elaborate a little more on my "rods: good" thing.
Yes, it is true you usually have to spend a little more to balance those rods with your assembly but from what a few machinists have told me it isn't because of the forging of the rod, its just the design of the H-beam.
Also...the reason why i say those rods are good is because i have yet to hear from someone who has broken them meaning the rod itself. It is usually something else that happens first and then takes out the rod. This isn't just my personal hearsay either...this is coming from many race shops and machinists in my area to use them. They have all told me the same thing, they see the rod bolt or something else let go before the rod ever does.
i can give quite a few examples of very high horsepower motors ranging from 800-1200 living with these rods.
Now the cranks are a different story, i will agree with anyone that thinks they aren't very good for a high performance application. I have heard numerous stories of them breaking and just recently had a friend who literally snapped the snout off of his eagle 4340 forged crank ON MOTOR and its not like he has a 9 second on motor car either....it wasn't a balancing issue either in case you ask about that.
These are some of my opinions and some of the racers/machinists around by city's opinions.
The cool thing about stuff like this is that everyone has opinions and makes you consider a lot of stuff you usually wouldn't have before hand
Yes, it is true you usually have to spend a little more to balance those rods with your assembly but from what a few machinists have told me it isn't because of the forging of the rod, its just the design of the H-beam.
Also...the reason why i say those rods are good is because i have yet to hear from someone who has broken them meaning the rod itself. It is usually something else that happens first and then takes out the rod. This isn't just my personal hearsay either...this is coming from many race shops and machinists in my area to use them. They have all told me the same thing, they see the rod bolt or something else let go before the rod ever does.
i can give quite a few examples of very high horsepower motors ranging from 800-1200 living with these rods.
Now the cranks are a different story, i will agree with anyone that thinks they aren't very good for a high performance application. I have heard numerous stories of them breaking and just recently had a friend who literally snapped the snout off of his eagle 4340 forged crank ON MOTOR and its not like he has a 9 second on motor car either....it wasn't a balancing issue either in case you ask about that.
These are some of my opinions and some of the racers/machinists around by city's opinions.
The cool thing about stuff like this is that everyone has opinions and makes you consider a lot of stuff you usually wouldn't have before hand
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